Travel & Lifestyle

The Cooler in the Trunk

The Cooler in the Trunk

He had a thermos the color of old mustard wedged under one arm, and he set it on the Civic's roof while he worked the bungee cord over the cooler lid, hooking it twice before it held. The fold-up map was already spread across the passenger seat, weighted open at one corner by a travel pack of peanut butter crackers. He glanced up the street once, toward my house - then lifted the cooler an inch and dropped it to settle it flat, the way a man does when he's done this enough times that his hands know the weight without thinking.

He took the exit without signaling, the turn so easy it almost surprised him. The grain elevator slid past in the side mirror, rust stripe down its ladder, gone. A hand-painted sign on a fence post said STATE PARK 2 MI - the M slightly larger than the rest, like whoever painted it had second-guessed the spacing. The coffee in the cupholder had gone the color of creek water and he left it there, both hands on the wheel, the windows pulling the smell of cut hay through the car.

The gravel crunched under his tires and he pulled in beside a mud-flecked Subaru, its back window plastered with a parks pass so old the edges had gone white and peeling. He killed the engine and sat a moment - watching a man in waders pick his way along the bank maybe fifty yards out, not fishing, just walking, hands loose at his sides. The sneakers went on with two hard yanks at the laces, the left one double-knotted the way he always did - and then he was on the trail, the sycamores dropping their bark in long pale curls onto the path like something the trees were slowly unbuttoning. A root caught his toe and he looked down, then up, and the reservoir opened wide between two trunks, silver and still and so close he could hear it.

He peeled back the wax paper and the smell hit him before the sight did - yellow mustard and something herby she'd always added that he'd never once thought to ask the name of. The apple was a Cortland, the same stippled red-green it had always been, and he turned it once in his hand before setting it on the table's warped plank. The ginger ale tab popped and a thin mist rose off the mouth of the can. He smoothed the wax paper flat against the table with his palm, the way you'd press out a wrinkle, and left his hand there.

The heron's reflection held in the water - one thin leg and its double, until something small moved six inches to the left and the surface broke and knit itself back. He bit into the apple and chewed slowly, looking at nothing in particular, the juice running to the heel of his hand. A chickadee landed on the far end of the table, considered the wax paper - and left. The ginger ale was warm when he finished it, and he set the empty can on its side and watched it roll a half turn and stop against a knot in the wood.

He folded the wax paper into quarters and pressed the last crease with his thumbnail, then set it on top of the apple core in the cooler's corner like it was worth keeping. The map rode home open on the passenger seat, the cracker wrapper still holding down one corner, the park's blue reservoir shape face-up the whole forty minutes. He hung the bungee cord on the cabinet knob above the toaster - the hook end out, where he'd see it when he reached for the coffee on Friday morning.

That night he pulled the cooler out from behind the recycling bin and wiped the inside with a dish towel, setting the towel on the counter still damp. He found a Sharpie in the junk drawer and wrote STATE PARK on the lid in letters that bled a little into the plastic, the A slightly crooked, and capped the marker and left it on top. The thermos was already rinsed and standing upright in the dish rack - its mustard-yellow sides catching the light above the sink.

He unfolded the map on the kitchen table that Wednesday and a thin blue circle was already there around the reservoir, slightly smeared on one side where his thumb must have crossed it going home. He hadn't remembered doing it. He pressed his thumb over it again now, matching the smear, and the ink had long since dried so nothing moved. He stood there with his thumb on the paper until the kettle started and he lifted it and went.

He called his sister on Thursday and talked about the drive mostly, the hand-painted sign and the man in the waders - and she said hm and yeah and then asked if he'd been to the one off Route 9, the one with the covered bridge, and he said he didn't know there was one off Route.⁹

He wrote ROUTE 9 on the inside of his wrist in the same Sharpie, below the sleeve, and it was still faintly there Friday morning when he reached for the coffee.

That weekend he took the exit without the map - the turn coming to him the way a word does when you stop trying to remember it, and the covered bridge was exactly where she'd said, its red boards going the soft gray of old barns at the waterline, a single rusted hinge holding something that wasn't a door anymore.

He stood on the planks above the current for a long time, looking down through a gap at the water moving under him - dark and fast and completely indifferent, and he thought he should have brought the thermos.

He found the parks pass in the glove box that Sunday, still in its plastic sleeve, the barcode unscratched, and he peeled the backing off and pressed it to the inside of the windshield with the heel of his hand - smoothing out one small bubble that kept coming back.

The woman at the trailhead kiosk had a clipboard and asked if he'd signed up for the guided walk, and when he said no she handed him a paper map anyway, a different one, hand-xeroxed, the creek names slightly blurred - and he folded it into his back pocket without looking at it.

He found himself on a spur trail he hadn't meant to take, following a smell he couldn't name, and it led him to a limestone shelf above a bend in the creek where someone had stacked three flat rocks into a small cairn and left a single acorn on top, balanced, for no reason and every reason - already there before he arrived.